An Icelandic Adventure (V)

Saturday began with a long lie in, easy to do as it didn't get light until about 10. Then we pondered how to spend the day and decided we'd just wander around Reykjavik.

I'd found a description of a suggested walking tour but when I tried to translate that to the city map we had I failed miserably as the tour talked about areas and the map showed streets. Incidentally I am still convinced the map was wrong.

So we just went. Daughter was more successful but, then again, she was in search of good coffee and pastries, which is an incentive for anyone. We made our way along the old harbour side to Hygge.

The Sun Voyager 

The very impressive concert hall

Outside the concert hall there was running warm water - you can't see the steam coming up off it in this photo.

Looking across the bay

One house built1902, the other still under construction. There's a lot of construction work going on alongside the old harbour.

These scooters are a feature of the city. They can be hired via an app to take you to your destination and then just left anywhere for the next person who wants a ride. They're quite powerful and speedy. 

Then we reached Hygge. I had a deliciously sticky cinnamon bun and Daughter had "the best pistachio croissant ever!" And notice my glass teapot and handle-less mug. Pretty but it burns your hands!

The observant amongst you will notice a third cake on the table. Well this was a traditional Icelandic bolla, and we hadn't had any breakfast so decided to share one. The trouble was there was a lot of creamy filling that can upset Daughter's stomach, so I had to eat some of her half too.

Bolludagur, Cream Bun Day, is celebrated on the Monday before Ash Wednesday at the start of Lent, but the baker in this particular shop was practising some new recipes, hence their early appearance

Then it was time to walk it off. We headed for Hallgrimskirkja, the magnificent church in the heart of Reykjavik. Building of the Lutheran church began in 1945 but the church wasn't consecrated until 1986.

The statue outside is of Leif Erikson who is thought to have been the first European to land in North America in Vinland, thought to be Newfoundland. It was a gift from the United States in 1930, commemorating the 1,000th anniversary of Iceland's parliament, Alþingi.

We were very fortunate to find a choir rehearsing in the church when we got there.

From there it was down the shopping street calling in all the souvenir shops. Have I mentioned how expensive Iceland is? This led us to Rainbow Street.

In one shop Daughter nudged me. "Spot the intruder," she said. I stared at the shelf she was indicating and it took me a good few seconds to realise what she meant. Meet Ofelia.

I honestly thought she was a very good pretend cat until I stroked her and she moved.

A brief stop at the hotel - mainly so I could go to the toilet - and we were off again. (Oh yes, remember the hotel boasted the oldest bones in Iceland? Well, they were there but in the museum next door and you had to pay for that so we didn't bother.)

This time we were looking for the old cemetery but we couldn't find it: maps lie! So we just wandered around the lake/pond. Icelanders seem very fond of statues - I'm doing a separate post all about those and one on graffiti - so I'll just show you one.

As you can see, the weather was beautiful.

Hundreds of geese, swans, seagulls, and ducks, skated their way towards the tourists who were feeding them. In the case of one swan it was skid and fall rather than gracefully skate!

And, finally, as the sun was getting lower in the sky, we headed back to the hotel to pack before returning to Mama Reykjavik for dinner.

Mine at the front is west African stew with sweet potatoes and peanut butter, and Daughter's is red dahl. Again all delicious.

Oh, yes, and we also spent a lot of time in bookshops. Now just three final pics.

An Icelandic redwing

I had to have an ice cream in Iceland

Speaks for itself.

I'm a tosser

I struggled from my sick bed this morning to spend the day at Rough Edges, filling a skip. No, I didn't really struggle; I was fine apart from aching ribs from all the retching.

I had to be there early because the skip was being delivered between 9.30 and 12. It arrived at about 10 and after it had been deposited I asked the delivery man if he was picking it up this evening: I was under the impression we only had it for one day. He shrugged. "Nothing to do with me. I'm just the deliverer."

"I know what you mean: I'm just the tosser. No! I don't mean I'm a tosser . . . I'm just the one . . ." but he was already climbing back into his cab.

It turns out we have the skip for a fortnight but it's nearly already full.

An Icelandic Adventure (IV)

"It's cloudy everywhere. The reading is low for solar activity. I'm not getting any reports of sightings. I don't know. We can try I suppose. Drive north a bit." Followed by big sigh and a shrug from our driver guide for the night tour.

Daughter and I were in hysterics. He was so unbelievably pessimistic. "Maybe he's trying to lower our expectations," Daughter giggled.

"You know if we don't see any tonight you can try again tomorrow or another night for free." He really knew how to make our evening that little bit brighter.

We drove north for about half an hour then there was a sudden screeching of tyres as he drove off-road onto a bit of rough land at the side. "It's showing activity!" he exclaimed, waving his phone to show us. He got out of the bus, looked around, then got back in, and moved the bus a little. "You can see them behind the bus," he said. Did he sound a bit disappointed?

We clambered out and peered in the direction he'd said. There was a very faint blueish streak over the hill. "Well, that's underwhelming," I said. But Daughter had her camera out and using that could see brighter lights. I opened my phone camera and all I could see was darkness. "Why can't I see anything?!"

On the bus the driver had not only explained how the northern lights worked but also given us camera instructions. Samsung cameras, he'd said, were better than iphones. My phone was a Samsung while Daughter's was an iphone. "Why can't I see anything?!"

Daughter suggested I try taking a photo and waiting while it 'developed' 

"Oh look! I've got it! It is there!"

After taking lots of photos I, along with others, got back in the bus. It wasn't clear whether we were going anywhere else or whether this was it. Time passed and I got off the bus again. Daughter dragged me in front of a camera on a tripod. "Will you take our photo, please?"

Our lugubrious guide hadn't announced it but was doing a proper photo shoot of all the tourists - or those that noticed him anyway. 

Similarly he later began offering cups of hot chocolate and chocolate snacks in a 'I'm here if you want some' manner. The warm drink and a snack were very welcome, and as the lights began to fade everyone got back on the bus.

"Activity level is getting lower but we can go on a bit further if you want to," our guide again, "or we can just go back. Whatever you want to do."

We went back. 

Twice on the way back the driver screeched to halt, leapt out with his camera, before getting back in again, shaking his head and saying, "No, nothing there."

Now from what I've written you might get the impression he was a dreadful guide but he made us laugh a lot. We also saw the Northern lights, perhaps not the most impressive ever, but we saw them. And it was late and it had been a long day so we were happy to go back to the hotel, with a tale to tell of our own Marvin. (For those who remember Marvin, the depressed android in Hitchhiker's Guide.)

I've been delaying posting this waiting for the photo of Daughter and me in front of the northern lights but it still hasn't made an appearance on their website so I'll tell you about the other exciting thing.

There were four or five of us loitering at the side of the bus when a 'thing' flew through the sky. It was greeted by gasps from all of us. We think it was a comet but it might have been an alien spacecraft burning up as it entered the earth's atmosphere.

It was very close and clear - and remarkable. It had a long tail and was red around the edges. Like this.

On this day

It's National Golden Retriever Day today so I can't let it pass without photos of our much-missed George, and our new young granddog, Theo.

An unexpected interloo

Having spent half the night with my head over the toilet, retching, I've only just got up (11.30) and I'm still feeling queasy.

I can't think what has caused it. Husband is fine and we ate the same things. There is only one possible suspect.

Before I went away I bought some sleep aid pills. The company rated highly on Trustpilot and all the reviews were good. I took two last night for the first time. It seems unlikely because they're only magnesium and natural substances but I can't think what else it could be. Maye a bug picked up on the plane but I would have thought it would have happened sooner if that were the source.

Anyway, moving now to sofa to feel sorry for self - again! 

An Icelandic Adventure (III)

Friday was going to be a long day. We had two trips booked: one a 9-hour day trip around the Golden Circle; and the other a late night trip to search for the Northern Lights.

Simon, a young Polish immigrant, was our driver and guide for the day trip. I was very impressed with his fluency in English, which must be his third language at least. Just about everyone in Iceland speaks very good English, which was a blessing as I didn't know a word of Icelandic. I knew in advance that English was well-spoken so didn't think to learn even please or thank you, which was very remiss of me. That said, apparently Icelanders are bemused by the way English-speakers say thank you so much.

Everyone going to Iceland does the Golden Circle in some form or other. There are numerous minibus tours offering the main attractions in one shape or another, of differing lengths and prices. Alternatively it's possible to go ice-sledding or glacier-driving. We didn't. (We went on a glacier when in Canada.)

It was dark when we set off at about 8.20 towards out first stop, Thingellir National Park. As well as being a wonderful location for hikes, and seeing Iceland's landscape, it was historically important too. It was the original site of the Althingi, Iceland's national parliament, considered to be one of the world's oldest democratic institutions. 

"The members of the Althingi would stand on a rock above Almannagja Gorge to read out the laws of the day to thousands of people. Each year, crowds gathered here to settle debates, exchange news, represent their families and clans, and even battle for dominance."

And that brings us to the Almannagja Gorge. Iceland was created by intense underwater volcanic eruptions along the boundary of the North American and Eurasian tectonic plates. Today it's possible to walk between the two plates along the Almannagja Gorge.

Younger Son and Nuora dived between the plates on their Icelandic honeymoon but just walking between them was enough for us.

From there it was on to Gulfoss, a two-tiered waterfall, dropping a total of 32 metres (11 and 12) into the canyon.

This was the coldest spot on your whole trip. But worth it. 

At the beginning of the twentieth century an English entrepreneur wanted to buy, well, basically, the waterfall. The farmer who owned the land refused but unwittingly signed an agreement. His daughter vowed to fight it and walked regularly to Reykjavik (72  miles) to go to court. In 1929 the entrepreneur gave up the fight and the land was passed back into Icelandic hands. 

Sigríður Tómasdóttir became known as Iceland's first female environmentalist and is commemorated with a sculpture at the site.

And then it was off again to Geysir, which gave its name to all geysers worldwide. But first an impromptu stop to meet some Icelandic horses.

Icelanders are very proud of their horses and insist it is disrespectful to refer to them as ponies. They are also very protective of their breed and no other horses are allowed into the country. They are descended from the first horses brought into the country by the Vikings and they have developed broad faces, narrow nostrils, and a very thick winter coat, allowing them to live outside all year round.

And then it was on to Geysir.

This one erupted every 5-10 minutes.

The area is littered with hot springs.

And lots of bubbling ponds.

As it's such a popular tourist area a centre has been built with a souvenir shop and several eating places, and it was here we had our lunch break. We'd left the hotel without breakfast so we were ready for it.

Iceland is very proud of its lamb and there is a tomato farm that harnesses geothermal energy to grow its tomatoes so I chose the traditional Icelandic lamb stew and Daughter opted for Tomato soup. Hers was the better choice.

The lamb stew was very like Welsh cawl - but mine is better - and the lamb in it wasn't particularly tasty. To be fair, I suppose, it was a sort of fast food catering for the tourists place. The tomato soup was very nice though.

And then we were off again. To the Secret Lagoon, the oldest bathing pool in Iceland, created in 1891. A very pleasant 38-40 degrees.

We were slightly horrified on the minibus driving there as Simon told us that before entering the pool we had to shower. Fair enough, except he added, "Fully naked in the Icelandic way." 

The maitre d' of the place repeated the same requirement. At this point we still weren't sure whether they were unisex changing rooms . . .

They weren't. But you haven't lived until you've seen a number of middle-aged and older, grey-haired, slightly chubby women trying to shower 'fully naked' as quickly as possible and with as little revealed as possible. (I'm not including Daughter in this classification of course.)

But again, worth it.

Our final stop was Kerid volcanic crater. The lake, which was frozen over, is a vivid blue in summer.

 

One of the passengers on our minibus was a solo-traveller, a young French man. He had no concept of time or manners. The first couple of times we stopped he failed to come back in time and we had to wait for him. Finally Simon said, "There is a saying in Iceland: if you're late you hitch-hike." He seemed to get the message after that.

But he was also rather stupid. At each location wherever a sign said, "Don't!" he did. Under railings, on cliff edges, he was determined to get a photo that was different from everyone else's.

You see the tiny figure on the left on the edge of the ice?

That was him. He then walked right across the ice. From above we'd seen cracks spreading across the ice so he was very fortunate to escape a freezing soaking.

And that was our Golden Circle trip. Back to the hotel and then out again to eat, this time at Fjallkonan. Our hotel was perfectly located for easy access to the city and the main eating area. Daughter chose well. We did toy with going here but decided against it.

We both had burgers, veggie or lamb, with some of the most delicious chips. Portion size is very generous in Iceland but, then again, prices are high, something like £30 for burger and chips. No photo this time; we were in a hurry. And hungry.

A brief rest in the hotel before setting out to search for the northern lights.

An Icelandic Adventure (II)

Daughter phoned this morning. She said, "You were an excellent holiday companion. You weren't annoying at all!"

Um, thank you. I would say the same thing about her. She is excited to visit bookshops. She wants to visit bookshops. She doesn't stand around in bookshops looking bored. And we both like cake, and, even though she didn't have one, she encouraged me to have an ice cream in Iceland.

I only bought three books (the one on the right is a birthday present for Daughter) but have come home with a long list of books about Iceland or by Icelandic authors that I want. I would have bought some books for the grandchildren but a picture book about The Thirteen Yule Lads of Iceland cost about £30. A picture book! Yes, mine cost the same or more but they're thicker!

An Icelandic Adventure (I)

We've travelled to Bristol airport on several occasions and it seems to be that Ms Satnav chooses a different route for us to navigate each time. Or possibly Bristol and its environs are like Hogwarts with its moving staircases. 

One route takes us into a toll area. Not a stop and pay at the booth toll, but a 'payline online before you travel' toll, which is fine if you know it's there, less good if it catches you unawares. But this time we were ready and we told Ms Satnav to avoid toll roads. Unfortunately it didn't register with her and we found ourselves scrabbling to change directions just as I'm approaching a roundabout. Daughter pressed all the right buttons and we sailed past must-be-avoided road and carried on until Ms Satnav said, "Turn right in 100 yards."

"Seriously? are you sure? That looks awfully narrow."

She was sure. So I did.

It was west Wales all over again. 

A one-car-wide lane with grass growing down the middle. 

But it got us there without tolls and with the wonderful benefit of watching a beautiful pheasant stroll across in front of us. Yes, it had time to stroll; it wasn't the sort of lane you could do more than 15 mph, at the most. And it really was the most glorious colours.

So, to get to my Icelandic tale proper. Daughter and I travelled on Thursday and returned yesterday, Sunday. We were travelling with Easyjet and Daughter had booked us in with just one small bag each, which was fine apart from the fact we had to wear half our clothes to travel in to save space. Imagine, if you will, squeezing into an airplane seat wearing thermal leggings and vest, a polo neck jumper, a big woolly jumper, jeans and furry boots. Not to mention my specially-bought 'keeps you super warm' coat. (You'll see photos of it later.)

But the flight was good, on time, smooth, and even arriving a little early in Iceland.

From there Daughter had arranged transport for us with the hotel. Looking forward to seeing a man holding up her name in the arrivals lounge she was a little disappointed to be greeted by every name but hers. 

Gradually all the other transporters' passengers arrived and left, leaving us standing there wondering how long we'd have to wait. Eventually Daughter phoned the hotel and was told the driver had been sick for the last two days but they'd get on to him. She and I looked at each other and at the bus booking desk. Daughter called the hotel back, told them not to worry as we'd go on the bus. The idea of travelling in a confined space with a not-very-well driver did not appeal.

But after that, everything went wonderfully, and even those hiccups - lane detour and sick driver - were all part of the adventure. 

On the drive to Reykjavik the bus driver explained that, because the days were so dark in January and February, householders and the council tended to keep their Christmas lights up for longer.

An idea worth copying I think. Though probably expensive for councils do it. Much of Iceland's power is geothermal and cheap.

Iceland is on the same time as us in the winter. They don't change their clocks so in the summer they're one hour behind the UK. So it was already dark when we arrived at the Hotel Centrum.

If you recall I mentioned that the hotel housed the oldest bones found in Iceland. True but to see them you had to pay to go into the Settlement Museum next door, and we chose not to include that in our short stay so didn't see those old bones.

All that remained on Thursday evening was for us to find a restaurant and eat. Daughter's vegetarian and if you just do a quick search of Reykjavik restaurants you would be forgiven for thinking it was all whale, puffin, and lamb. However, while only about 6% of Iceland's population is vegetarian or vegan, Iceland is the number 1 vegetarian friendly country in Europe based on number of vegetarian restaurants per million of the population.

Our first foray into Icelandic veganism was a trip to Mama Reykjavik, a community style café come community centre. A folksy new agey feel, and a warm welcome.

Okay, our choice of food wasn't the most Icelandic but it was delicious and in generous portions. We both chose Mama's curry, made with chickpea, potato, coconut milk, and spices. With garlic wood-fired naan to share. I also couldn't resist a glass of beetroot, pear, and lemon juice.

It was so good we went back again on Saturday night - but more of that later.

I think we have to go to Sainsburys now as the pantry is bare.